About Xenos and Proud

This is a small blog about my Warhammer 40,000 hobby. I will try to concentrate on the tactics behind the general game and my Xenos armies but there will be the odd post about random stuff.

About Me

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Aberdeen, United Kingdom
Xenos and Proud is an 18 year old from Scotland who has been playing 40K for the last 4 years. He loves the 'under-dog' xenos armies, namely his Tyranid Gorgon splinter fleet, his Saim-Hann windrider host, his Tau Vleastean Hunter-cadre and the newest addition, the Shadowfax Corsairs. Although his tactics are mostly 'borrowed', his painting skills still 'developing' and his luck becoming evermore 'ridiculous' he continues to play, paint and roll in the hope that one day things will get better.

Monday, 6 December 2010

Chipping and Varnish

Hey everyone,

Today I bought myself some Purity Seal Varnish from GW to (hopefully) protect my chipping metal models. My metal models always seem to chip no matter what I do. I buy a big case to protect them in inches of foam, they chip during play and even against the foam. I take off the sticky coating of the models with a wash in water before I prime them, the Fire Dragons still ship in a week. I buy an expensive varnish from GW and .........

Just as pricy as the rest of their stuff, but is it worth it?
.....well hopefully this will finally stop my 'expert' painting skills from being chipped away. I will give the Fire Dragons a coat first then if they survive the the test of time the whole army gets a coat. One thing I need to watch out for is the sheen the varnish might leave. Although it says it dries to a matte finish, similar to that of the paint I am sceptical. Eldar are meant to be shiny but my Zoanthropes aren't.

So has anyone used this before or know of a better varnish? Any tips or things to watch out for?

1 comment:

  1. A satin varnish like shown in the post is halfway between gloss and matte.

    No varnish will protect against everything. I generally brands from hardware stores and the like. Matte sealers do knock the shine off, gloss ones will leave things shiny. If you want both effects for different models, get some of each kind of sealer. Brush-on sealers or masking can also help for when you want one part glossy and the rest matte, or vice versa.

    Tips would be to treat it like any other spray - test it before spraying over a mass of models, watch for weather conditions - dry and warm work best, for thicker shells use multiple light passes over time (allowing for drying) vs. trying to glop a ton on at once.


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